Anthony Vaccarello’s Most Iconic Bags for Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello joined the House of Saint Laurent in 2016, following the departure of Hedi Slimane, who left to lead Celine’s creative operations. Slimane had catapulted Saint Laurent into the modern era, dropping “Yves” from the name and establishing a new, more contemporary aesthetic. The shift brought immense financial success, and Vaccarello arrived with big shoes to fill.

And fill them he did. Over the following decade, the French House experienced largely consistent growth, though many of Vaccarello’s early designs faced considerable scrutiny. Still, the designer remained steadfast in his vision of the modern Saint Laurent woman, gradually making the brand feel distinctly his own while staying true to its heritage.

Though his departure was anticipated, it sent shockwaves through the industry, a testament to the impact of his work at Saint Laurent. His tenure culminated in a jaw-dropping Spring 2027 show at Paris Fashion Week late last month.

Today, we look back at some of Anthony Vaccarello’s most memorable handbag moments throughout his tenure at Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Le 5 à 7

In mid-2021, a sleek shoulder bag reminiscent of the little going-out bags that ruled the fashion scene in the late 1990s and early 2000s burst onto the fashion radar. Dubbed Le 5 à 7, or cinq à sept, the name translates literally to “five to seven.” In France, the expression traditionally refers to a secret romantic rendezvous in the hours before returning home to a spouse or family.

The cheeky name perfectly complements the bag’s chic, sexy design, defined by a slim profile, a simple silhouette, and the bold YSL Cassandre logo. Initially released in black, the bag quickly became a hit for the House and was soon introduced in a range of colors, along with a smaller, miniature version. It became a favorite of Hailey Bieber’s (and ours, too), with the beauty mogul frequently spotted carrying it in different colors.

Vaccarello eventually capitalized on the bag’s early success, introducing a supple version alongside larger, more practical sizes suited to everyday wear.

Saint Laurent Loulou

Named after Loulou de la Falaise, one of Yves Saint Laurent’s many muses and a close personal friend, the Saint Laurent Loulou was one of Vaccarello’s first major handbag launches for the House, debuting in 2017.

Defined by its plush chevron quilting and bold YSL Cassandre logo, the Loulou was an immediate hit. Nearly a decade later, it remains a staple of the Saint Laurent lineup. Its original design, characterized by generously padded chevron quilting, has since been streamlined for a more modern feel, moving away from the ultra-plush aesthetic that defined so much of the late 2010s.

The line has expanded over the years to include sizes ranging from Toy to Large, as well as a camera bag version that remains one of the brand’s best-selling entry-level styles. While the Loulou followed the successful accessories strategy established by Vaccarello’s predecessor, it also marked an early step in making Saint Laurent’s signature design codes his own.

Saint Laurent Y Tote

Released in 2024, the Saint Laurent Y Tote first made waves when its then-unfamiliar silhouette was spotted on Bella Hadid that summer. Few outlets were talking about the bag initially, but that changed quickly when other stars, including Zoë Kravitz and Charli XCX, were seen carrying it ahead of its early-November release.

Designed by Anthony Vaccarello, the Saint Laurent Y Bag immediately evoked the Saint Laurent of the early aughts, signaling a shift toward sleeker, less logo-driven silhouettes and more discreet branding.

Defined by subtle Y-shaped stitching and devoid of the brand’s iconic YSL Cassandre logo, the Y Tote’s relaxed, slouchy silhouette and oversized proportions felt modern and fresh. Vaccarello embraced the big bag movement, offering a more understated alternative to the logo-driven statement bags that had dominated the market.

Saint Laurent ICare Maxi Shopping Tote

In 2022, the oversized bag trend finally found its footing after years of near misses. Anthony Vaccarello and the Saint Laurent team sensed the moment had arrived, and they were right. Enter the massive Icare Maxi Shopping Bag, unveiled in the spring of 2022.

Supremely soft and deliberately slouchy, this oversized carryall is crafted entirely from quilted lambskin, striking a balance between effortless ease and undeniable impact. The finishing touch? An enlarged version of Saint Laurent’s signature Cassandre logo, sculpted into a jewelry-like statement piece.

Love it or hate it, the Icare has made its mark. Its viral rise evoked the early 2000s, when statement bags like the Mombasa and the Muse captured the fashion world’s attention. More than a passing trend, it has secured its place as one of Vaccarello’s defining handbag designs for the House.

Saint Laurent Mombasa

The iconic Saint Laurent Mombasa was designed by Tom Ford in 2001, at a pivotal moment for the House. Defined by its distinctive horn handle and slouchy silhouette, the bag quickly became one of the most coveted accessories of the early aughts, helping define a new era for the brand. The Mombasa propelled Saint Laurent’s handbags into the mainstream, contributing to the brand’s reported $90 million in accessories sales.

In 2026, Anthony Vaccarello revived the Mombasa just in time for its 25th anniversary, marking a major archival revival for the brand. At a time when vintage-inspired silhouettes and archive designs have become ubiquitous, Vaccarello had largely resisted the trend, opting to forge his own path until the moment felt right. The Mombasa’s return brought the beloved design back into the spotlight, reimagined with a more contemporary sensibility.